Water damage is your home’s worst enemy! Here is a perfect example of what I see as a Cedar Rapids home inspector. Gutters that are full of debris and are either clogged or will be clogged at the first rainfall and grounds that slope towards the foundation walls.

As a Cedar Rapids Home Inspector, a part of my mission is to educate people about why keeping their gutters clean and their grounds properly sloped is important. It may seem like a small thing, but at Eastern Iowa Inspection services we view it as a very big deal.

What Do Gutters Do?

Your gutters serve to get water off of the roof and away from the foundation of the home. Many hundreds of gallons of water run down the roof during an average rain here in Cedar Rapids and Waterloo Iowa. You don’t want all that water running down around the foundation walls.

If your gutters are clean and functioning properly they will carry the majority of that water through the downspouts and away from the foundation.

What Can Happen?

As a professional home and commercial property inspector I see many wet basements in Cedar Rapids and Waterloo Iowa. There’s nothing worse than a damp, unusable basement. High moisture levels and seepage in the basement are conducive to Mold Growth and rot.

One thing about being a home inspector in Cedar Rapids and Waterloo Iowa is that you get to see a variety of problems. These problems vary greatly in severity. Clogged gutters and poor perimeter grading really can be your home’s worst enemies!

Here is an example of what happens when the slope of perimeter grading is negative.  This home had the gutters but not the grounds, which has over time caused the dirt to wash away. Fortunately for the home owner’s, they have a good sump pump to pump that water away. Once they get the grounds sorted out that sump pump will certainly run a lot less.

Be Proactive!

Instead of waiting for problems to appear, be proactive and contact us. We’ll come out and perform a professional home inspection that you can use as a road map to getting your house in shape.

Contact Us

It doesn’t matter if I am in Waterloo, Cedar Rapids, Cedar Falls, or anywhere in between. The principals remain the same. Keep your gutters clean and the grounds properly slopping away from the home. Otherwise, you may have foundation issues over time that are irritating and costly to repair.

The post The 2 G’s! A Cedar Rapids Home Inspector and Your Home’s Worst Enemy. appeared first on EI2S Inspections.

First, the pit!

Is the pit clean? Sump pits are wet, dirty, and sometimes moldy environments. If your sump pit has not been cleaned in recent years, or ever, it would be a good idea to clean it. It can be easily cleaned with a scrub brush and mild detergent. Simply scrub well, rinse, and run the pump. if you need a source of water, the water heater and washing machine both have faucets to hook up to. If the bottom of the pit has debris present, remove it. If you have drainage tile feeding the pit, check for rodent droppings. Surprisingly, mice can and do enter homes through these tiles. A screen can be placed at the exit of the pipe, but it must be inspected periodically to ensure that no clog is present in order to maintain good function. Now that the pit is nice and tidy, let’s look at the pump.

How to inspect your pump.

Inspecting your sump pump can consist of a simple visual inspection with a quick run, or physically removing the pump to inspect the impeller, electrical connection, and general condition of the unit. While you have the pump removed, you will want to inspect the check valve to ensure proper function. You should also check the condition of the discharge pipe to ensure no leaking has started. The pipes move every time the unit cycles on, so the possibility of leaking exists. Some sump pumps have screens that should be inspected for debris accumulation.

What pump should I buy? How often?

Sump pumps require periodic replacement due to normal wear. Their service life varies greatly depending on several factors, e.g. number of run cycles, condition of your sump pit (clean or dirty), and brand of pump. The brand of pump you purchase is a personal choice. However, if your pump only runs a few times per year, you may opt for a lower-priced unit and proactively replace it on a set schedule, say every 4-5 years. Lower-priced units usually have plastic cases and can be priced under $100.00. If your pump runs often, you may opt for a more expensive unit with a cast-iron case and stainless steel parts. The higher-end units may run in excess of $175.00 but are designed for heavy use and typically last much longer.

To float, or not to float?

Last but not least. If your sump pump does run often throughout the year and you don’t have one already, you might consider installing a piggyback variable level float switch. Installing one of these will dramatically reduce the number of run cycles and may greatly increase the life of your pump. Again, if you are not qualified, I highly recommend these items be installed by a licensed plumber because improper installation can end up being a very expensive mistake.

The post Sump Pump inspection during the winter? appeared first on EI2S Inspections.

This month’s letter is short, sweet, and important!

Moisture intrusion and high moisture levels are the main drivers of mold growth in the interior of the home. The last thing we want is mold growing visibly, or worse yet, hidden from view in our home. How can we prevent mold growth inside our home? Keeping moisture under control. How do we accomplish that?

To control moisture levels in the home, we first need to look outside the home. Are our gutters clogged? Clogged gutters are worse than having no gutters at all, and a heavy contributor to moisture accumulation around the foundation walls. How is the grading around the home? 90% of homes I inspect have grading issues of one type or another. Correcting negative grading can go a long way to reducing moisture accumulation around the foundation and subsequent moisture intrusion into the home. There are other more extreme measures that can be taken to usher water away from our home, but that’s another subject for another time.

Now that we have looked at the outside of the home, let’s go to the basement, shall we? Do you have a dehumidifier? If so, what is the digital humidistat set to? It should be 55% to no more than 60%. This will have the unit drawing down the moisture levels in the basement below the typical mold growth threshold of ~60%. Keeping moisture levels under control will greatly lessen the potential for mold growth.

Has your dehumidifier been recalled? Better check our Facebook page for the recalled units and make sure you’re not on it. Done with that? Good. Now that you know your dehumidifier is not recalled and set properly, have you cleaned the filter lately? The unit cannot do its job if the filter is dirty. It’s typically located above the bucket and should be checked at least semi-annually.

Now that you have checked these few things, you should have far less moisture on the interior of the home. Remember, mold likes to grow at humidity levels of ~60% and above so keep those moisture levels under control.

Have a great month!

The post Keeping Moisture Under Control appeared first on EI2S Inspections.

Over the last decade of performing home inspections, commercial inspections, mold testing/inspection, and other inspection-related services, I have seen many things related to spring home inspection maintenance tips that haven’t been properly addressed. I always include maintenance-related items in a property inspection report to educate home/commercial buyers as to some of the things they should keep an eye on overtime. Here is a list of a few of the items I believe should be looked at in the spring season.

Gutters:

Clean your gutters! It’s spring. Rainy season is on the way. Clogged gutters are worse than no gutters at all. If you have mature trees, consider adding gutter guards.

Extend downspouts. Improperly configured downspouts are worse than none at all. They may lead to water infiltration, foundation movement, and conditions conducive to mold growth in the home.

Humidifiers:

One of the most neglected items I see during an inspection is the bypass humidifier. A bypass humidifier works by passing warm air over wet media. The water is typically supplied via a saddle valve from a nearby plumbing source. A humidistat calls for added humidity in the home-based upon its setting. When this happens, a solenoid actuates and allows water to flow over the media which humidifies the air that passes over it. The air is then distributed throughout the home via the HVAC distribution ducts. If this is not serviced, it may become a source of mold and distribute mold spores throughout the home instead of moist air. Every spring is the time to inspect, clean, replace media, and shut down the unit for the season. You will not need it until the following winter.

Furnace Filters:

If you haven’t checked or replaced your furnace filter this year, you should do it now. Pictured is a washable filter. Furnace filters come in varying configurations. Furnace filters that are not changed restrict airflow leading to reduced efficiency, unnecessary wear of the heat exchanger, and poor performance. Do not operate your high-efficiency furnace without a filter as debris will clog your secondary heat exchanger and exacerbate all of the previously mentioned issues.

Grading:

Springtime is a good time to work on grading corrections. Most, if not all homes experience settled grade at some point, as contractors and landscaping subcontractors rarely exaggerate or mechanically compact perimeter grading. If you are building a new home, you might keep this in mind. The settled perimeter grade encourages water to accumulate around the foundation walls instead of running away. This adds stress on sump pumps if present and may lead to foundation damage, moisture intrusion, and conditions conducive to mold growth inside the home. The ground is soft and easy to work within the spring. This spring home inspection maintenance tip is to correct negative grading wherever possible.

Service and Clean the A/C Condenser:

One of the spring home inspection maintenance tips is to have your A/C condenser serviced and most importantly cleaned! Summer is just around the corner. You want your equipment running properly and at peak efficiency. Many of the A/C condensers I see during an inspection are clogged with cottonwood, grass, and/or debris. The A/C condenser pulls air in through the sides and expels it out the top to reduce the temperature of the refrigerant running through the coils. If the cooling fins are clogged with debris, you may lose up to 30% efficiency, not to mention the added stress on the whole system. With some units, it’s simply a matter of grabbing the garden hose and gently rinsing the debris from the cooling fins. Other units must be disassembled and cleaned by a professional. You will know which one you have very quickly. FYI, your A/C professional will likely not service the unit until outside temps reach ~70 degrees.

Dryer Vent:

After being cooped up all winter doing laundry, you should take advantage of spring and check your dryer vent. If I inspected your home, that was included and you would have been notified if the vent was improper for the application. Some siding contractors and DIY installers use the wrong siding accessory which contains a grill. This grill will collect lint, clog and may lead to dryer malfunction or worse, dryer fire. The dryer vent should be checked at least annually, but better semi-annually. Check yours today to see if lint can be properly exhausted to the exterior. In addition to that, the lint screen on the dryer should be cleaned after each load is dried. This will allow the dryer to run at full efficiency and maximize the service life of the unit.

I hope you found these spring home inspection maintenance tips useful. I hope you will share them with your friends, family, and coworkers. Feel free to email or share via social media so that we all can have a safe and productive year.

All the best,

Mike

The post Spring Home Inspection Maintenance Tips appeared first on EI2S Inspections.

Folks, it pays to have an Iowa home inspection done by someone who’s been there and built that. I recently inspected an 8-year-old home in a small town that was, at a glance, just dreamy on the exterior. It had an appealing architectural design and many great features.

As I was walking up the driveway though I noticed the first of many little things that led to some bigger things that, unfortunately for the buyers and sellers, caused the deal to fall apart.

As a home inspector, I get asked a lot about who is responsible for repairs that need to be done. If there is a realtor involved, I always refer to them because they are there to hopefully help you negotiate the best deal possible on the home.

A lot of times while conducting the inspection I will run into projects that have been done DIY, and many times it’s quite obvious. In this particular house, DIY was evident at every turn. One of the numerous items that jumped out was the use of “S” traps for the plumbing.

In modern construction, we do not see “S” traps used as they can potentially siphon out the seal in the trap and allow sewer gas to enter the dwelling. I have a standard disclaimer statement that I provide when I run into this on older homes but on an eight-year-old home? Why couldn’t the plumber whoever they were install a vented drain system with “P” traps instead?

Here is an interesting shot. It’s not unusual to have some settling of the backfill around the foundation over time and I speak to this quite often. It’s not a huge deal and it is easily rectified. However, if this patio had settled we would see indications of this between the top of the patio and the scratch coat that has been applied to the insulated concrete form (ICF) foundation above the slab. There are no visible indications of movement which means that this patio was placed like this. This patio is sloping towards the home about six inches from the edge to the foundation wall. Hmmm, which way was I supposed to slope that? I wonder if this could lead to water problems at the foundation? What do you think?

Well, when surface scanning the basement wall with my survey master moisture meter, I found that there indeed was elevated moisture in the wall. Better suggest this be further evaluated and repaired as needed by a qualified contractor.

I remember that the buyer of this home had mentioned to me that they had just spent thirteen thousand dollars to replace the patio at the home they were currently in. Like Forest Gump might say. “Sometimes there just aren’t enough nice things to say about that.”

These are a few examples of what we came across in this eight-year-old home. Like I always say, “It pays to have an Iowa home inspection done by someone who’s been there and built that.”

The post Iowa Home Inspection: Who built this thing? appeared first on EI2S Inspections.

Here’s a good tip. During the transition between warmer and colder outside temperatures, turn your furnace fan switch to the on position and set your dehumidifier down to around 45%. This will help reduce interior moisture levels, which will reduce condensation on windows and the potential for mold growth. You may have to do this more than once per year depending on the weather and whether or not you are experiencing excess moisture on your windows.

Too Much Humidity

Early in the winter, we are constantly battling excess moisture in the home. The excess moisture comes from cooking, breathing, bathing among other sources. When the warm moist air comes into contact with cold surfaces, the air cools and moisture condenses out onto whatever surface it comes into contact with. Using the furnace fan and dehumidifier can help reduce interior moisture. Simply follow the steps above and eventually the interior moisture levels will drop enough that the dehumidifier will not run any longer.

Not Enough Humidity

During the rest of the winter months, the humidity often drops so low, that you may experience dry skin, dry nose, and excess static electricity. The humidity can get as low as 10% at times. That is dryer than the driest desert. In order to combat this, many people have humidifiers either permanently mounted to their HVAC system or portable units that require refilling. When setting the humidity levels on humidifiers we need to try to keep things reasonable. You can’t expect to have 70% in the middle of January when it’s 10 degrees outside. A reasonable, or comfortable level of humidity in the home during the winter would be around 30%. You simply set the humidistat and the unit will do all the work or you. Most find that between 30% and 40% is a good interior moisture level during the winter. I suggest keeping it at the low end if you can to avoid condensation.

Back to Summer

During the summer months, I always recommend that you set your dehumidifier to 55% or 60% and forget it. This is a reasonable level for the summer months and will keep mold growth at bay. It will also help with utility bills as the unit will be able to cycle on and off as opposed to running constantly when the level is set too low. High interior moisture levels are the enemy of comfort and good health year-round, so keep it under control.

The post Winter Tips #10: Interior Moisture Issues appeared first on EI2S Inspections.

Water damage is your home’s worst enemy! Here is a perfect example of what I see as a Cedar Rapids home inspector. Gutters that are full of debris and are either clogged or will be clogged at the first rain fall and grounds that slope towards the foundation walls.

As a Cedar Rapids Home Inspector, a part of my mission is to educate people about why keeping their gutters clean and their grounds properly sloped is important. It may seem like a small thing, but at Eastern Iowa Inspection services we view it as a very big deal.

What Do Gutters Do?

Your gutters serve to get water off of the roof and away from the foundation of the home. Many hundreds of gallons of water run down the roof during an average rain here in Cedar Rapids and Waterloo Iowa. You don’t want all that water running down around the foundation walls.

If your gutters are clean and functioning properly they will carry the majority of that water through the down spouts and away from the foundation.

What Can Happen?

As a professional home and commercial property inspector I see many wet basements in Cedar Rapids and Waterloo Iowa. There’s nothing worse than a damp, unusable basement. High moisture levels and seepage in the basement are conducive to Mold Growth and rot.

One thing about being a home inspector in Cedar Rapids and Waterloo Iowa is that you get to see a variety of problems. These problems vary greatly in severity. Clogged gutters and poor perimeter grading really can be your homes worst enemies!

Here is an example of what happens when the slope of perimeter grading is negative.  This home had the gutters but not the grounds, which has over time caused the dirt to wash away. Fortunately for the home owner’s, they have a good sump pump to pump that water away. Once they get the grounds sorted out that sump pump will certainly run a lot less.

Be Proactive!

 Instead of waiting for problems to appear, be proactive and contact us. We’ll come out and perform a professional home inspection that you can use as a road map to getting your house in shape. 

Contact Us

I doesn’t matter if I am in Waterloo, Cedar Rapids, Cedar Falls or anywhere in between. The principals remain the same. Keep your gutters clean and the grounds properly slopping away from the home. Otherwise, you may have foundation issues over time that are irritating and costly to repair. 

The post The 2 G’s! A Cedar Rapids Home Inspector and Your Home’s Worst Enemy. appeared first on EI2S Inspections.

I always inspect the sump pit and pump during home and commercial property inspections. It seems to be one of those items that nobody thinks about until it starts running again. It’s a very good idea for you to inspect your sump pit and pump periodically.

First, the pit!

Is the pit clean? Sump pits are wet, dirty and sometimes moldy environments. If your sump pit has not been cleaned in recent years, or ever, it would be a good idea to clean it. It can be easily cleaned with a scrub brush and mild detergent. Simply scrub well, rinse, and run the pump. if you need a source of water, the water heater and washing machine both have faucets to hook up to. If the bottom of the pit has debris present, remove it. If you have drainage tile feeding the pit, check for rodent droppings. Surprisingly, mice can and do enter homes through these tiles. A screen can be placed at the exit of the pipe, but it must be inspected periodically to ensure that no clog is present in order to maintain good function. Now that the pit is nice and tidy, let’s look at the pump.

How to inspect your pump.

Inspecting your sump pump can consist of a simple visual inspection with a quick run, or physically removing the pump to inspect the impeller, electrical connection, and general condition of the unit. While you have the pump removed, you will want to inspect the check valve to ensure proper function. You should also check the condition of the discharge pipe to ensure no leaking has started. The pipes move every time the unit cycles on, so the possibility of leaking exists. Some sump pumps have screens that should be inspected for debris accumulation.

What pump should I buy? How often?

Sump pumps require periodic replacement due to normal wear. Their service life varies greatly depending on several factors, e.g. number of run cycles, condition of your sump pit (clean or dirty) and brand of pump. The brand of pump you purchase is a personal choice. However, if your pump only runs a few times per year, you may opt for a lower priced unit and proactively replace it on a set schedule, say every 4-5 years. Lower priced units usually have plastic cases and can be priced under $100.00. If your pump runs often, you may opt for a more expensive unit with a cast iron case and stainless steel parts. The higher end units may run in excess of $175.00 but are designed for heavy use and typically last much longer.

To float, or not to float?

Last but not least. If your sump pump does run often throughout the year and you don’t have one already, you might consider installing a piggy back variable level float switch. Installing one of these will dramatically reduce the amount of run cycles and may greatly increase the life of your pump. Again, if you are not qualified, I highly recommend these items be installed by a licensed plumber because improper installation can end up being a very expensive mistake.

The post Sump Pump inspection during the winter? appeared first on EI2S Inspections.

Over many years of building and performing home inspections, I have seen a lot of doors poorly or improperly hung. The reasons for this vary;  poor craftsmanship, rushing what should not be rushed, damage after proper installation from a sub-contractor, even the installation of an improperly sized or damaged door because “they just couldn’t wait” for a replacement and were told to make it work. No matter what, a door is interior finish. It is what the owner, customer or buyer sees and operates when they go through the property. It needs to be done right or not at all in my opinion.

There are many types of doors, and there are many techniques for proper door installation. I’m not trying to start a debate on installation techniques, just illustrate what is good about this one and how the finished product should look and function.

Here is an example of a properly hung door. The door in the picture is a pre-hung interior door. This means that the door, door frame and hinges come pre-assembled which makes for an easier installation. Here are a few bullet points to show what’s correct about this installation.

• Note that the “reveal” (gap around the perimeter of the door) is almost perfectly even from top to bottom on both sides and across the head jam. This is more difficult to achieve on a cheap press-board door frame than a higher quality plywood frame. Either way, a poor reveal is illustrative of poor craftsmanship and typically results in improper door function, e.g. rubbing on the jam or hinge binding. Improper framing of the rough opening can greatly impact the ability to achieve a nice reveal and functional door. Framing adjustments should be made if possible, rather than trying to “make it work”.  A good foundation is key in all aspects of construction.
•  Note the shims are holding the frame perpendicular to the wall and are placed strategically along the length of the door frame and head jam to keep the frame straight and true. This is what keeps the reveal described above nice and even. It also makes for easier installation of the casing around the door when the time comes to install it. A trim carpenter will appreciate a good door installation that doesn’t need to be messed with!
• The proper installation of shims and frame alignment also serve to prevent the door from becoming hinge bound. A hinge bound door will resist closing as the lock set nears the strike plate when closing the door. A properly aligned door will swing shut with ease and not require any extra effort.
• You can’t see it, but there is a single 3” screw in each hinge tying the door frame to the adjoining stud. A good carpenter will pre-drill these so not to deform the frame when tightening the screw. Also a single screw on the latch side hidden in the strike pocket is a good idea to bolster the strength of the installation. This will help keep the frame in place in case the door is slammed due to breeze or what have you.
• Notice that the shims are cut flush with the frame and the frame is flush with the drywall. This makes for a nice easy installation of the casement for the installer or trim carpenter. Improperly installed doors are difficult to case out. There may be some swearing from the trim carpenter.
• Lastly, note that the door frame is not in contact with the concrete floor. When installing a door, floor covering must be considered. Typically on hard surface floors, the door will be installed after the floor for a nice fit to the bottom of the frame. If carpet is used, a piece of base board can be used to hold the frame up off the sub floor so the carpet can be properly rolled under the frame onto the tack strip. In this installation, an unfinished basement, there is no floor finish so the door frame was kept ~ ½” above the concrete to prevent moisture from wicking up into the frame. Wicking moisture may cause rot or mold to occur. No construction material, save treated lumber should be in direct contact with concrete floors as moisture damage may occur.

Ultimately, doing things right the first time will benefit you and those that come behind you, be it other craftsmen, clients, buyers or anyone who cares to notice.

I hope that this article helps you better understand door installation, in case you ever decide to or need to install a door.

All the best,

Mike

The post Proper Pre-Hung Door Installation appeared first on EI2S Inspections.

Over many years of building and performing home inspections, I have seen a lot of doors poorly or improperly hung. The reasons for this vary;  poor craftsmanship, rushing what should not be rushed, damage after proper installation from a sub-contractor, even the installation of an improperly sized or damaged door because “they just couldn’t wait” for a replacement and were told to make it work. No matter what, a door is an interior finish. It is what the owner, customer or buyer sees and operates when they go through the property. It needs to be done right or not at all in my opinion.

There are many types of doors, and there are many techniques for proper door installation. I’m not trying to start a debate on installation techniques, just illustrate what is good about this one and how the finished product should look and function.

Here is an example of a properly hung door. The door in the picture is a pre-hung interior door. This means that the door, door frame, and hinges come pre-assembled which makes for an easier installation. Here are a few bullet points to show what’s correct about this installation.

• Note that the “reveal” (gap around the perimeter of the door) is almost perfectly even from top to bottom on both sides and across the head jam. This is more difficult to achieve on a cheap press-board door frame than a higher quality plywood frame. Either way, a poor reveal is illustrative of poor craftsmanship and typically results in improper door function, e.g. rubbing on the jam or hinge binding. Improper framing of the rough opening can greatly impact the ability to achieve a nice reveal and functional door. Framing adjustments should be made if possible, rather than trying to “make it work”.  A good foundation is key in all aspects of construction.
•  Note the shims are holding the frame perpendicular to the wall and are placed strategically along the length of the door frame and head jam to keep the frame straight and true. This is what keeps the reveal described above nice and even. It also makes for easier installation of the casing around the door when the time comes to install it. A trim carpenter will appreciate a good door installation that doesn’t need to be messed with!
• The proper installation of shims and frame alignment also serves to prevent the door from becoming hinge-bound. A hinge-bound door will resist closing as the lockset nears the strike plate when closing the door. A properly aligned door will swing shut with ease and not require any extra effort.
• You can’t see it, but there is a single 3” screw in each hinge tying the door frame to the adjoining stud. A good carpenter will pre-drill these so as not to deform the frame when tightening the screw. Also, a single screw on the latch side hidden in the strike pocket is a good idea to bolster the strength of the installation. This will help keep the frame in place in case the door is slammed due to a breeze or what have you.
• Notice that the shims are cut flush with the frame and the frame is flush with the drywall. This makes for a nice easy installation of the casement for the installer or trim carpenter. Improperly installed doors are difficult to case out. There may be some swearing from the trim carpenter.
• Lastly, note that the door frame is not in contact with the concrete floor. When installing a door, floor covering must be considered. Typically on hard surface floors, the door will be installed after the floor for a nice fit to the bottom of the frame. If carpet is used, a piece of baseboard can be used to hold the frame up off the subfloor so the carpet can be properly rolled under the frame onto the tack strip. In this installation, an unfinished basement, there is no floor finish so the door frame was kept ~ ½” above the concrete to prevent moisture from wicking up into the frame. Wicking moisture may cause rot or mold to occur. No construction material, save treated lumber should be in direct contact with concrete floors as moisture damage may occur.

Ultimately, doing things right the first time will benefit you and those that come behind you, be it other craftsmen, clients, buyers, or anyone who cares to notice.

I hope that this article helps you better understand door installation, in case you ever decide to or need to install a door.

All the best,

Mike

The post Proper Pre-Hung Door Installation appeared first on EI2S Inspections.